Five Nights of Wildlife Photography at Sabi Sabi
on Jul 23, 2024Recently, my colleague Macs and I had the incredible opportunity to guide wildlife photography seminar hosted by renowned wildlife photographers Gerry van der Walt and Andrew Beck. This popular seminar is designed to immerse participants in the art of capturing the essence of nature, establishing a deeper connection not only with their photographic abilities but also with wildlife and nature as a whole. Here’s a recount of our unforgettable journey.
Our adventure began with a swift lunch and introductions. The excitement was palpable as we embarked on our first game drive. We quickly heard of a female cheetah lounging in a vast open area. Waiting for the golden light in hopes she would move; we watched her full belly keep her at rest. Despite this, it was an excellent opportunity for everyone to get their camera gear and settings ready.
![Female cheetah lounging in a vast open area. Female cheetah lounging in a vast open area.](/application/files/5117/2165/8505/sabi-sabi-jp-van-rooyen-cheetah-female-resting.jpg?fID=35086&d=0)
The evening took an exhilarating turn when we found Khulwana, a large male leopard, moving through the thickets. Keeping up with him was difficult, however, as we caught up to him, he sprung into a thicket of Tamboti trees. Like a ghost, he disappeared—no dust, no noise, no movement. Multiple minutes passed before he peaked from behind a log with a Duiker antelope in his mouth. It was assassin-like. This dramatic start set the tone for what promised to be an unforgettable seminar.
![Khulwana moving through the thickets Khulwana moving through the thickets](/application/files/5617/2165/8586/sabi-sabi-jp-van-rooyen-khulwana-male-leopard.jpg?fID=35093&d=0)
The following morning, we set out to track the Southern Pride seen the previous day. We witnessed them navigating through fallen trees and basking in the low morning sun before settling in a shaded patch.
![Southern Pride navigating through fallen trees Southern Pride navigating through fallen trees](/application/files/thumbnails/image_588x532/6817/2165/8689/sabi-sabi-jp-van-rooyen-southern-pride-cubs-on-tree.jpg?fID=35102&ftid=145&d=0)
![Southern Pride lionness basking in the low morning sun Southern Pride lionness basking in the low morning sun](/application/files/thumbnails/image_588x532/5217/2165/8700/sabi-sabi-jp-van-rooyen-southern-pride-lionness.jpg?fID=35103&ftid=145&d=0)
After a hearty bush breakfast, we resumed our quest for leopards in the afternoon. We found Golonyi, a well-known leopardess, posing beautifully on a termite mound amidst lush greenery and a clear blue sky. We trailed her as she slowly ambled through tall grasses and beautiful riverine habitats. Soon, she did what she does best—pose. It was perfect, with the greens of the Jackal Berry leaves and the tungsten blue skies after sunset. This provided the guests with the best possible opportunity to focus on honing the fine art of spotlight photography and test their setups' low-light capabilities. With the cameras clicking away, Trackers Dollen and Themba picked up on alarm calls of impalas seemingly not too far to our west.
![Golonyi posing beautifully on a termite mound Golonyi posing beautifully on a termite mound](/application/files/thumbnails/image_588x532/3317/2165/8575/sabi-sabi-jp-van-rooyen-golonyi-leopardess.jpg?fID=35092&ftid=145&d=0)
![Leopardess with the greens of leaves and the tungsten blue skies in background Leopardess with the greens of leaves and the tungsten blue skies in background](/application/files/thumbnails/image_588x532/7717/2165/8563/sabi-sabi-jp-van-rooyen-golonyi-in-tree.jpg?fID=35091&ftid=145&d=0)
A short search delivered two young male lions, who turned out to be boys recently ousted from the Sand River Pride. The dramatic lighting provided perfect conditions to capture stunning back-lit and side-lit shots. The day ended with a profound appreciation for the interplay of light and wildlife.
![A profound appreciation for the interplay of light and wildlife. A profound appreciation for the interplay of light and wildlife.](/application/files/thumbnails/image_588x532/5717/2165/8678/sabi-sabi-jp-van-rooyen-sand-river-males-dramatic-light.jpg?fID=35101&ftid=145&d=0)
![Two young male lions Two young male lions](/application/files/thumbnails/image_588x532/9417/2165/8667/sabi-sabi-jp-van-rooyen-sand-river-males.jpg?fID=35100&ftid=145&d=0)
Day three brought challenges with windy and cold weather, making wildlife sightings scarce. In the morning, we used the opportunity to test camera features and lens sharpness on smaller animals like Lilac-breasted rollers and mongooses. Later, after another scrumptious bush breakfast and a cup of coffee, the female cheetah seen on the first day had made her appearance.
Still digesting, she lay on the side of a termite mound, hidden from the harsh light of the late morning sun. Inquisitive giraffes coming for a closer look forced her to move away to conceal her presence, as there were impalas grazing in the plains below her. She soon got back into position, and now patience was key as she set her sights on some impala. However, an untimely change in wind direction and an ear flick sent off the alarm calls between kudus feeding alongside the impala. With the attempt being unsuccessful, she returned to the shade, and we made our way back to the lodge.
![Female cheetah on the side of a termite mound Female cheetah on the side of a termite mound](/application/files/3117/2165/8516/sabi-sabi-jp-van-rooyen-cheetah-on-termite-mound.jpg?fID=35087&d=0)
The afternoon brought us close to a herd of elephants arriving at a waterhole. Their coordinated movements created perfect photo opportunities.
![Herd of elephants arriving at a waterhole Herd of elephants arriving at a waterhole](/application/files/4617/2165/8528/sabi-sabi-jp-van-rooyen-elephants-waterhole.jpg?fID=35088&d=0)
As darkness fell, we were treated to an epic sighting of Ntsumi and her cubs, climbing trees and playing, though challenging light conditions made photography tough. Unexpectedly, on our way back to the lodge, we were pleasantly surprised when Tengile made her way onto the road in front of us, and shortly thereafter, her curious little cub appeared. At Sabi Sabi, we don't shine the spotlight on cubs under one year of age, so photos were not an option, but sitting and watching their moonlit figures was unreal.
![Ntsumi and her cubs climbing trees and playing Ntsumi and her cubs climbing trees and playing](/application/files/5217/2165/8621/sabi-sabi-jp-van-rooyen-ntumsi.jpg?fID=35096&d=0)
Our morning mission on day four to find leopards paid off when we located Ntsumi's cubs not far from where we had left them the previous night. Macs found one of Ntsumi's cubs early on, and later, the other cub made her appearance. We were fortunate to spend the entire morning observing them as they went about their day.
A large male white rhino on a territorial patrol came walking by, which got the attention of one cub. The cub proceeded to trail the rhino until we lost visual of them heading into a drainage line. As if the morning couldn't be better, word over the radio came that Ntsumi had been spotted heading towards the now one cub left behind. We watched Ntsumi trail her little wanderlust cub and call for the rest of the morning. Knowing that they were very close to each other and would reunite at some point, we decided to leave for breakfast and head back to the lodge.
![Ntsumi cub in early morning Ntsumi cub in early morning](/application/files/2517/2165/8632/sabi-sabi-jp-van-rooyen-ntumsi-cub.jpg?fID=35097&d=0)
![Ntsumi cub in grass Ntsumi cub in grass](/application/files/thumbnails/image_588x532/7517/2165/8655/sabi-sabi-jp-van-rooyen-ntumsi-cub-in-grass.jpg?fID=35099&ftid=145&d=0)
![Ntsumi cub enjoying the morning sun Ntsumi cub enjoying the morning sun](/application/files/thumbnails/image_588x532/6217/2165/8643/sabi-sabi-jp-van-rooyen-ntumsi-cub-close-up.jpg?fID=35098&ftid=145&d=0)
In the afternoon, we decided to check in on the Gijima males and the Msuthlu females and their cubs, who had made a zebra kill the night before. With most of them gorged to the brink of explosion, they lazed around, finishing the last scraps. As the sun sank below the horizon, we left them squabbling over the last bits of meat on the carcass, providing a dramatic and engaging scene.
![Msuthlu females giving a loud roar Msuthlu females giving a loud roar](/application/files/4817/2165/8608/sabi-sabi-jp-van-rooyen-msuthu-female.jpg?fID=35095&d=0)
The final day began with an awe-inspiring sighting of the Msuthlu females, their cubs, and the Gijimas at a watering hole. The cubs, energised by the early morning light, played and stalked each other, creating beautiful backlit scenes. As the sun rose, the lions began to yawn and groom, eventually moving away from the water. This sighting was a fitting conclusion to our seminar, leaving everyone with a profound sense of accomplishment and connection to the wild.
![Msuthlu cub in early morning light Msuthlu cub in early morning light](/application/files/4217/2165/8597/sabi-sabi-jp-van-rooyen-msuthu-cub.jpg?fID=35094&d=0)
![Gijima male gives loud roar Gijima male gives loud roar](/application/files/thumbnails/image_588x532/9717/2165/8540/sabi-sabi-jp-van-rooyen-gijima-male-lion.jpg?fID=35089&ftid=145&d=0)
![Gijima male keeping an eye out Gijima male keeping an eye out](/application/files/thumbnails/image_588x532/7317/2165/8551/sabi-sabi-jp-van-rooyen-gijima-stoic-male-lion.jpg?fID=35090&ftid=145&d=0)
Reflecting on the seminar, it was a truly enriching experience for both the guests and us as guides. The knowledge shared by Gerry and Andrew was invaluable, and the camaraderie among the group made the experience even more special. The seminar not only enhanced photography skills but also deepened the appreciation for the art of photography. Gerry's advice to "set up for the shot you want, not the shot you have" resonated deeply, reminding us to be intentional and patient. Andrew's confidence and engaging teaching style provided valuable lessons in guest interaction and decision-making. The seminar was a testament to the beauty and unpredictability of the wild, leaving us all with memories to cherish and skills to build upon.
Throughout the seminar, several unforgettable moments stood out. One such instance was encountering the herd of elephants drinking from the Msuthlu drainage line right outside of the lodge, allowing us to sit safely on ground level mere meters away from giants. Being so close to these magnificent creatures was a humbling experience. The participants were thrilled with the sightings, and it was rewarding to see their photography skills improve over the course of the seminar. Many expressed how the experience exceeded their expectations and reignited their passion for wildlife photography.
One of the main challenges was the unpredictable nature of wildlife sightings. However, we managed to locate and photograph a diverse range of animals. Weather conditions also posed a challenge at times, but we adapted by using available subjects to test gear. Ensuring the perfect sighting involved balancing light conditions and environment to provide the best photographic opportunities, however remembering that some things are out of our control relieved the pressure to impress and allowed us to fully enjoy the experience.
The seminar was a testament to the beauty and unpredictability of the wild, leaving us all with memories to cherish and skills to build upon.
Blog by JP van Rooyen (Bush Lodge Ranger)